One Market

The main reason I wanted to start up gfork again was because of this Michelin-starred restaurant in San Francisco.

The good: The roast du jour was a filet mignon wrapped in pancetta. While I’m not a big fan of any type of salted pork mixed with beef (e.g. a burger topped with bacon), this hunk of meat was very juicy and tender and surprisingly not too salty. The chick pea fries were crunchy on the outside, soft inside, served with a tasty aioli sauce. The bittersweet chocolate soufflé satisfied my sweet tooth while being light as a feather.  Unfortunately, all these dishes were what my dinner guest ordered.  I ordered, “The bad.”

The bad: (Where should I start?) My wait time given by the hostess was “just a few minutes,” past my reservation time, but turned out to be a 20 minute wait at the SRO bar. The duck ravioli with foie gras emulsion was expectedly rich but too salty (the emulsion served frothy was a bit disconcerting), likewise the scallops. A glass of pinot gris that the waiter recommended (and three dollars more than my original choice of pinot grigio) was not as crisp as was told. My macadamian nut sundae was served in a parfait cup that was too narrow for the tablespoon that accompanied it. (Hello?)

The vibe: An atmosphere of upper-middle class touristas hanging out who don’t know that a block away, Boulevard exists. IMHO, One Market is man’s man restaurant trying not to look like a man’s man restaurant, filled with man’s men and man’s women who want to be seen in a man’s man restaurant. I’m sure they make a mean martini, though.

The outcome: I’ve been to Bradley Ogden’s other restaurants and have had excellent meals, however I think One Market suffers from it’s location – a highly visible, highly foot trafficked corner by San Francisco visitors and business people who like/want their food high end, and highly seasoned and to that I say to them, “happy eating.”

One Comment on “One Market”

  1. nostatic December 9, 2007 at 18:45 #

    you go girl. I’ll bet their dirty martini is indeed dirty…but maybe for the wrong reasons :-p

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